What is the Best Clear Coat for Fishing Lures

Table of Contents

1. Introduction
2. Why Your Clear Coat Choice Matters
3. The Main Contenders: 2-Part Epoxy vs. Moisture-Cured Urethane
4. Comparison of Common Lure Clear Coats
5. The Rise of UV Resin
6. Essential Techniques for a Flawless Finish
7. Specialized Tips for Different Lure Materials
8. Troubleshooting Common Problems
9. Safety and Storage Considerations
10. Conclusion
11. FAQ

Introduction

You have spent hours meticulously painting a custom crankbait. The scales are perfect, the transition from the dark spine to the pearlescent belly is flawless, and the "kill spot" is exactly where it needs to be. You take it out for its first run, and after three casts into a rocky shoreline, the paint starts to flake and peel. Every angler or lure maker has faced this frustration. At BattlBox, we know that the longevity of your gear is just as important as its performance. A lure is only as good as its finish, as the clear coat provides the essential barrier between your art and the harsh reality of underwater structures and fish teeth. This article covers the different types of clear coats available, from 2-part epoxies to modern UV resins, to help you determine which one belongs on your workbench. Choosing the right finish depends on your patience, your equipment, and the specific action of the lure you are building. If you want gear picked with that same kind of precision, subscribe to BattlBox.

Quick Answer: For most hobbyists and professionals, the best clear coat for fishing lures is either a high-quality 2-part epoxy like Devcon 2-Ton for a thick, glass-like finish, or a moisture-cured urethane like KBS DiamondFinish for a thinner, more flexible, and durable dip-and-hang application. If you're building a broader tackle setup, start with the Fishing Collection.

Why Your Clear Coat Choice Matters

A clear coat is more than just a shiny top layer. It serves several functional purposes that can make or break a day on the water. If you choose the wrong product, you risk ruining the lure's buoyancy, dulling the paint's vibrancy, or even causing the lure to crack in extreme temperatures. If you want a deeper dive on the lure itself, our guide to choosing the right lure for bass fishing is a useful companion read.

Impact Resistance and Hardness

Fishing lures are tools of high-impact violence. They are slammed against bridge pilings, dragged over gravel bars, and crushed by the jaws of predatory fish like muskie or bass. A good clear coat must be hard enough to resist scratches from treble hooks but flexible enough not to shatter upon impact. For more on presentation and retrieve, see how to use fishing lures for bass.

Waterproofing and Sealing

For those working with wooden blanks—like balsa or cedar—the clear coat is the only thing keeping the wood from absorbing water. Once wood swells, the paint will crack, and the lure’s action will be permanently destroyed. Even with plastic blanks, a proper seal ensures that your internal rattles and weight transfer systems remain dry and functional. If you are learning the assembly side too, how to attach a fishing lure covers the basics.

UV Stability

Sunlight is the enemy of many resins and plastics. Over time, inferior clear coats will "yellow" or become amber-toned. This shifts the colors of your lure, turning a bright white belly into a sickly yellow. High-quality coatings contain UV inhibitors that keep the finish crystal clear for years of exposure. If color is part of your design process, what color fishing lure to use helps explain the tradeoffs.

The Main Contenders: 2-Part Epoxy vs. Moisture-Cured Urethane

The debate over the "best" clear coat usually boils down to two main categories: 2-part epoxies and 1-part moisture-cured urethanes (MCU). Both have distinct advantages and learning curves.

2-Part Epoxy (The Traditional Heavyweight)

Two-part epoxies, such as Devcon 2-Ton (D2T) or Envirotex Lite (Etex), are the standard for many custom lure builders. These consist of a resin and a hardener that must be mixed in a precise 1:1 ratio.

• Pros: It creates a thick, "glassy" look with immense depth. It is very hard and provides excellent protection for the paint underneath.
• Cons: It is heavy and can change the buoyancy of small lures. It also requires a "lure turner" or rotisserie to keep the epoxy from sagging or forming drips while it cures.

When using epoxy, the mixing process is critical. If you do not mix it thoroughly, you will end up with "tacky" spots that never fully harden. Most builders recommend mixing for at least two full minutes, scraping the sides of the mixing cup as you go. That same attention to detail shows up in compact gear like the Exotac xREEL.

Moisture-Cured Urethane (The Professional Edge)

Products like KBS DiamondFinish have gained massive popularity because they offer a "dip-and-hang" simplicity that epoxy cannot match. These are single-component (1K) coatings that cure by reacting with the moisture in the air.

• Pros: No mixing required. It can be applied in very thin coats, which preserves the original action of the lure. It is incredibly flexible and won't crack if the lure body flexes.
• Cons: Storage is difficult. Because it reacts with air, the moment you open the can, the clock starts ticking on the remaining product.

For a more modular setup, the Exotac xREEL Roundabout Kit keeps hooks, lures, and weights together.

Key Takeaway: Use 2-part epoxy if you want a thick, showroom-quality finish on larger lures. Use moisture-cured urethane if you want a durable, thin finish that is easy to apply via dipping.

Comparison of Common Lure Clear Coats

The Rise of UV Resin

In recent years, UV resin has moved from the fly-tying bench to the crankbait workshop. This material stays liquid indefinitely until it is exposed to specific wavelengths of ultraviolet light. If you’re working under a lamp or curing light, browse the Flashlights collection.

UV Resin is excellent for the builder who lacks the space for a lure rotisserie. You can brush the resin on, take your time to ensure there are no bubbles, and then "zap" it with a UV torch or place it in a UV curing box. Within minutes, the lure is rock hard and fishable. A rechargeable keychain flashlight can make inspection and cleanup easier.

However, be aware that some cheaper UV resins can remain slightly tacky or may yellow faster than high-end epoxies. If you choose this route, look for resins specifically formulated for outdoor use or those labeled "non-tacky."

Essential Techniques for a Flawless Finish

The best clear coat in the world will look terrible if applied poorly. Follow these steps to ensure your finish looks professional and stays bonded to the lure. For bench tools and everyday-carry helpers, explore the EDC collection.

Step 1: Surface Preparation

Ensure the lure is completely free of oils from your skin. Wipe the lure down with a lint-free cloth. If you have just finished painting, ensure the paint is 100% dry. Applying clear coat over "outgassing" paint will lead to bubbles or "fish eyes" (small circular voids in the finish).

Step 2: Leveling and Application

If you are using epoxy, apply it with a high-quality, short-bristled brush. Start from the middle of the lure and work toward the edges. If you are using an MCU, dipping is often the most efficient method. Dip the lure slowly to avoid trapping air bubbles.

Step 3: Managing Bubbles

Bubbles are the bane of every lure maker. For epoxy, a light pass with a butane torch or a heat gun will pop surface bubbles instantly. The heat thins the epoxy momentarily, allowing the air to escape. Do not hold the heat in one place for too long, or you may scorch the paint or melt a plastic blank. A waterproof plasma lighter can be handy when you want a compact heat source within reach.

Step 4: The Curing Phase

If using epoxy, the lure must stay on a rotisserie. A motor that spins at 4–6 RPM is ideal. This constant motion uses gravity to keep the epoxy level. If you hang an epoxy-coated lure to dry without spinning, the resin will migrate to the tail, creating a large, ugly "blob."

Myth: You can't thin epoxy because it ruins the strength. Fact: You can safely thin 2-part epoxy with a few drops of high-purity acetone or denatured alcohol to make it easier to brush. However, do not exceed a 10% ratio, or you may interfere with the chemical bond.

Specialized Tips for Different Lure Materials

The material of your lure blank dictates how you should approach the coating process. We emphasize using the right tool for the job, and clear coat is no different. If you're comparing styles before you coat them, what is the best fishing lure? is a helpful next read.

Wooden Lures (Balsa, Cedar, Pine)

Wood is porous. If you apply a clear coat directly to a painted wooden lure, the wood might "soak up" the finish unevenly. Many pro builders use a "sealing coat" of thin super glue (CA glue) or a diluted epoxy before they even start painting. Once the paint is applied, a flexible MCU like KBS DiamondFinish is often better for wood because it can handle the minute expansions and contractions of the timber without cracking. For a good example of how lure shape changes the whole presentation, how do you fish with a frog lure? shows why buoyancy and finish matter.

Plastic and Resin Blanks

Plastic lures are non-porous, meaning the clear coat relies entirely on a mechanical bond to the paint. Ensure your paint has enough "tooth" for the clear coat to grab onto. Avoid using excessively oily paints. For plastic, the weight of the clear coat is a major factor. A heavy coat of epoxy on a small, suspending jerkbait might turn it into a fast-sinking lure. Always test the buoyancy after the coat has cured.

Metal Jigs and Spinnerbaits

For metal, durability against chipping is the priority. Moisture-cured urethanes excel here. They bond exceptionally well to metal surfaces and are thin enough not to gunk up the eyelets of small jigs.

Troubleshooting Common Problems

Even experienced builders run into issues. Here is how to fix the most common clear-coating disasters.

• Tacky Finish: This is almost always caused by improper mixing ratios in 2-part epoxy. If a lure is still sticky after 24 hours, it will likely never cure. You can sometimes save it by applying a very thin layer of properly mixed epoxy over the top, but often you'll need to strip it and start over.
• Fish Eyes: These are small craters where the clear coat has pulled away from the surface. This is usually caused by silicone contamination or oils from your fingers. Clean your workspace and use gloves.
• Cloudiness: This happens when moisture gets trapped in the coating during the curing process. This is common with certain epoxies if the humidity in your shop is too high. Try to clear coat in a climate-controlled environment.
• Cracking: If your clear coat is too brittle and your lure body is flexible, the finish will crack like an eggshell. Switch to a more flexible MCU or a specialized "flex" epoxy if you are dealing with thin, high-vibration lures.

Safety and Storage Considerations

Working with these chemicals requires a level of caution. Most clear coats emit Volatile Organic Compounds (VOCs) that can be harmful if inhaled over long periods. Keep the Medical & Safety collection in mind when you're setting up your workspace.

1. Ventilation: Always work in a well-ventilated area. A small desk fan can help pull fumes away from your face.
2. Skin Protection: Wear nitrile gloves. Epoxy and urethanes are difficult to remove from skin and can cause allergic reactions in some people over time.
3. Storage: For 1K products like KBS, storage is a challenge. Pro tip: Use an "air-in-a-can" product or specialized nitrogen/argon sprays to displace the oxygen in the can before sealing it. This prevents the remaining liquid from curing inside the container.

At BattlBox, we believe in being prepared with the right knowledge before you start a project. Whether you are building lures for your own tackle box or starting a small business, the clear coat is your final line of defense. It preserves your hard work and ensures your lures can stand up to the biggest fish in the lake.

Conclusion

Finding the best clear coat for fishing lures is a balance between the aesthetic you want and the durability you need. For a deep, lustrous finish that makes colors pop, a 2-part epoxy remains the gold standard, provided you have a lure turner. For the highest level of durability and ease of use through dipping, moisture-cured urethanes like KBS DiamondFinish are hard to beat. If speed is your priority, UV resins offer an almost instant cure. No matter which you choose, focus on meticulous surface preparation and proper curing environments. Building your own gear is a core part of the self-reliant outdoor lifestyle we promote.

Bottom line: Choose your clear coat based on your equipment. If you have a turner, go with epoxy. If you want to dip and hang, go with a moisture-cured urethane.

Ready to upgrade your outdoor kit with gear curated by professionals? Choose your BattlBox subscription.

FAQ

Can I use regular spray paint clear coat on my lures?

While you can use hardware-store spray cans, they are generally not recommended for fishing lures. Most are not designed for constant submersion and lack the thickness or impact resistance needed to withstand hook rash and underwater obstacles. They often yellow quickly and may react poorly with the lure's base paint.

Do I really need a lure turner for epoxy?

Yes, if you want a professional, even finish with 2-part epoxy, a rotisserie is essential. Because epoxy has a long "open time" (the period it remains liquid), gravity will pull it toward the lowest point of the lure, resulting in uneven thickness and drips. A slow-turning motor ensures the epoxy levels itself perfectly across the entire surface.

How do I keep the eyelets of my lures from clogging with clear coat?

The most effective way is to wait until the clear coat is "leather-hard" (partially cured but not yet brittle) and then carefully clear the eyelets with a toothpick or a small wire. If the coat has already fully hardened, you can use a small drill bit or a heated needle to melt or chip away the excess material from the eyelet.

Why did my clear coat turn yellow after a few months?

Yellowing is typically caused by UV exposure or the chemical makeup of lower-quality resins. Many industrial epoxies are not formulated with UV inhibitors because they are intended for indoor use. To prevent this, always look for clear coats specifically marketed for lure building or outdoor marine environments, as these contain stabilizers to maintain clarity.