Battlbox
How to Make Your Own Fishing Lure Molds
Table of Contents
- Introduction
- Why Make Your Own Fishing Lure Molds?
- Selecting the Right Materials
- Preparing the Master Model
- Setting Up the Mold Frame
- Mixing and Pouring the Silicone
- Creating Two-Part Molds
- Pouring Your First Soft Plastic Baits
- Troubleshooting Common Issues
- Essential Tools for Your Lure Workshop
- Maintaining and Storing Your Molds
- Conclusion
- FAQ
Introduction
Every angler has a favorite lure that just seems to trigger strikes when nothing else works. Maybe it is a specific shade of green pumpkin or a tail action that mimics local forage perfectly. The frustration begins when that specific lure is discontinued or the cost of replacing a bag every weekend starts to bite into your gas money. Learning how to make your own fishing lure molds is the ultimate way to take control of your tackle box, and if you want monthly gear that supports that same self-reliant mindset, choose your BattlBox subscription is a smart next step. At BattlBox, we value self-reliance and the ability to maintain your gear through practical skills. This guide will teach you how to manufacture professional-grade silicone molds for soft plastic baits right at your workbench. By the end of this article, you will understand how to replicate your favorite designs and create custom lures that the fish in your local waters have never seen before.
Why Make Your Own Fishing Lure Molds?
The primary reason to start making your own molds is customization. Retail stores carry what is popular, but local conditions often require something niche. When you make your own molds, you can adjust the buoyancy, scent, and color of your baits to match the specific hatch of your home lake.
Cost is another significant factor. High-end soft plastics can cost nearly a dollar per bait. By recycling old, torn lures or buying bulk plastisol (the raw material for soft plastics), you can drop that cost to pennies. Furthermore, the satisfaction of catching a trophy fish on a lure you designed and cast yourself is unmatched. It turns a hobby into a craft.
Finally, this is a vital skill for long-term preparedness. If supply chains fail or you find yourself in a remote location for an extended period, being able to reproduce effective fishing tackle from raw or scavenged materials ensures you can keep food on the table. If you want to build a wider preparedness kit around that same mindset, the BattlBox homepage is a good place to start.
Quick Answer: A fishing lure mold is a cavity made from durable material like silicone or plaster used to shape liquid plastic into a specific bait design. To make one, you create a "master" model, suspend it in a frame, and pour a molding agent around it to capture the detail.
Selecting the Right Materials
Before you pour any silicone, you need to choose the right materials. Not all molding compounds are created equal. The most common choice for DIY lure making is RTV (Room Temperature Vulcanizing) silicone rubber.
Silicone Types: Tin vs. Platinum
There are two main types of silicone used for lure molds: tin-cure and platinum-cure.
Tin-cure silicone is the industry standard for beginners. It is generally more affordable and less sensitive to "inhibition," which is when a silicone fails to cure because it touched a certain chemical. It is great for making molds of wooden or 3D-printed masters.
Platinum-cure silicone is more expensive but offers better long-term stability and less shrinkage. However, it can be extremely finicky. If it touches certain types of clay or even some types of 3D printer resin, it will stay gooey forever.
Shore Hardness
When buying silicone, look at the Shore Hardness rating. This tells you how firm the finished mold will be. For soft plastic lures, a Shore A rating between 15 and 30 is ideal. Anything softer will deform when you handle it; anything harder might make it difficult to pop the finished lure out of the mold.
Preparing the Master Model
The "master" is the original object you are trying to copy. It is the most important part of the process because every scratch or thumbprint on the master will show up on every lure you pour. If you are looking for more field-tested gear ideas while you work, BattlBox advanced gear fits the same practical, hands-on mindset.
Using Existing Lures
The easiest way to start is by using a lure you already own. You can take a popular ribbon-tail worm or a paddle-tail swimbait and use it as your master. Before molding, ensure the lure is perfectly clean and straight. Any kinks or bends in the lure will be permanent in your new mold.
Sculpting from Clay
If you want to innovate, use sulfur-free modeling clay. You can sculpt unique appendages, ribbing, or body shapes. Just remember that the smoother the clay, the glossier the finished lure will be.
3D Printing
Many modern lure makers use 3D printers to create masters. This allows for perfect symmetry and intricate details like scales and gill plates. If you use a resin (SLA) printer, be sure to clear-coat the master with an acrylic spray, as some resins prevent silicone from curing.
Key Takeaway: The quality of your finished lure is 100% dependent on the surface finish of your master model; spend extra time sanding and polishing your master before the pour.
Setting Up the Mold Frame
You need a container to hold the liquid silicone while it hardens. This is called a mold frame or a "mold box." You can build these out of scrap wood, acrylic sheets, or even LEGO bricks.
Step 1: Size the frame. Your frame should be at least half an inch larger than your master on all sides. This ensures the mold walls are thick enough to hold their shape and withstand the heat of molten plastic.
Step 2: Seal the base. If you are using a four-sided frame, you need to seal it to a flat base. Hot glue is the best tool for this. Run a bead of glue around the outside of the frame where it meets the base to prevent silicone from leaking out.
Step 3: Secure the master. You don't want your master floating to the top when you pour the silicone. Use a tiny drop of superglue or a thin layer of double-sided tape to stick the master to the bottom of the frame.
Step 4: Apply a release agent. Even though silicone doesn't stick to much, a dedicated mold release spray or a very thin coat of petroleum jelly will help you remove the mold from the frame and the master from the mold later.
Mixing and Pouring the Silicone
This is where many beginners make mistakes. Silicone usually comes in two parts: a base and a catalyst.
Step 1: Calculate the volume. Fill your mold frame with dry rice or plastic beads to see how much volume you need. Pour that into a measuring cup so you know exactly how much silicone to mix.
Step 2: Mix thoroughly. Follow the manufacturer's ratio exactly. Use a flat-bottomed stirring stick and scrape the sides and bottom of the cup repeatedly. Unmixed silicone will create "wet spots" in your mold that never dry.
Step 3: The "High Pour" technique. To avoid trapping air bubbles on the surface of your lure, pour the silicone in a very thin stream from about 12 to 18 inches above the frame. Start pouring in the corner of the frame and let the silicone flow naturally around the master. This forces air upward and away from the detail.
Step 4: Curing. Most RTV silicones take 12 to 24 hours to cure. Resist the urge to poke it. Set it on a level surface in a room with a consistent temperature.
Note: If you see large bubbles rising to the surface, you can gently tap the side of the frame or use a toothpick to pop them. Professional makers use vacuum chambers to degas the silicone, but a high pour is usually sufficient for hobbyists.
Creating Two-Part Molds
A one-part mold (an "open pour" mold) has a flat back. This is fine for worms and craws. However, if you want a fully round lure, like a realistic baitfish, you need a two-part mold.
To do this, you fill the mold frame halfway with modeling clay. Press your master lure halfway into the clay. Smooth the clay until it is perfectly flat around the "seam" of the lure. Then, pour your first half of silicone.
Once that cures, flip the whole thing over, remove the clay, and pour the second half of silicone directly onto the first. Crucial: You must use a heavy layer of mold release between the two silicone layers, or they will fuse into a solid block.
Pouring Your First Soft Plastic Baits
Once your mold is cured and the master is removed, you are ready to pour. You will need Plastisol, which is a liquid polymer that turns into a soft solid when heated to approximately 350°F.
Heating the Plastic
For small batches, a microwave-safe glass measuring cup (like Pyrex) is the best tool. Heat the plastic in 30-second bursts, stirring in between. The liquid will turn from a milky white to a thick syrup, and finally to a clear, thin liquid. This is the "gel point."
Adding Color and Glitter
Once the plastic is clear, add your heat-stable liquid dyes and glitter. A little goes a long way. You can also add salt to make the lures heavier or scent oils to make them more attractive to fish.
The Pour
Slowly pour the molten plastic into your mold. If you are using an open-pour mold, fill it right to the top. If you are using a two-part mold, you may need a plastic injector (which looks like a large metal syringe) to force the plastic into the cavity.
Important: Molten plastisol is extremely hot and can cause severe burns. Always wear gloves, long sleeves, and safety glasses. Additionally, heating plastic releases fumes; only do this in a well-ventilated area or under a vent hood.
Troubleshooting Common Issues
Even experts have failed pours. Here is how to fix the most common problems.
Bubbles in the Lure
If your finished lure looks like Swiss cheese, your plastic was either too cold or you stirred it too vigorously, trapping air. Heat the plastic slightly more and stir gently. For more insight into lure selection and how action affects bites, this guide to what lures to use for what fish is a helpful companion read.
The "Dreaded Dent" (Heat Sinks)
As plastic cools, it shrinks. On thick lures, this can cause a dent to form on the top. To prevent this, "overfill" the mold slightly or keep a small reservoir of hot plastic at the top of the pour hole to feed the shrinkage.
Flash or Seam Lines
If plastic is leaking out between the two halves of your mold, your mold isn't clamped tight enough or the faces of your mold aren't flat. Ensure your mold frame was perfectly level when you poured the silicone.
Myth: You need expensive machinery to make high-quality lures.
Fact: Some of the most effective lures on the market today started as hand-carved wooden masters cast in simple silicone molds on a kitchen counter.
Essential Tools for Your Lure Workshop
To get started, you don't need a factory, but a few specific tools will make the process much easier. We recommend keeping a dedicated "lure station" so you don't contaminate your food prep areas.
- Infrared Thermometer: Crucial for checking the temperature of your plastic. If it goes over 380°F, it will burn and turn yellow.
- Quality Fixed Blade Knife: Used for trimming "flashing" (excess plastic) off the finished lures. If you want a practical cutting tool with the same no-nonsense utility, BattlBox Basic is built for that kind of everyday readiness.
- Ventilation Fan: A simple window fan or shop vac can help pull fumes away from your face.
- Clamps: For two-part molds, you need strong pressure to keep the halves together during the pour.
Our team at BattlBox knows that the best gear is often the gear you customize yourself. Whether it’s modifying a survival kit or pouring your own baits, the goal is the same: being better equipped than the person next to you.
Maintaining and Storing Your Molds
Silicone molds are durable, but they aren't indestructible. Over time, the heat from the plastisol will slowly "cook" the silicone, making it brittle.
Cleaning: After a day of pouring, wipe your molds down with a soft cloth. If they get dusty, use warm soapy water and let them air dry completely. Never use harsh solvents.
Storage: Store your molds flat. If you stack them haphazardly, they can warp over time. Keep them in a cool, dark place. UV rays from the sun can degrade silicone.
Lubrication: Occasionally, the plasticizer oils in the lures will dry out the mold. A very light mist of silicone spray can help keep the mold supple and ensure easy release of the baits. If you keep a field kit for repairs and maintenance, BattlBox flashlights are another smart category to have on hand for low-light work.
Bottom line: Treat your molds like any other piece of precision gear; keep them clean, dry, and stored properly to ensure they last for hundreds of pours.
Conclusion
Making your own fishing lure molds is a rewarding bridge between the world of outdoor sports and DIY craftsmanship. It allows you to replicate expensive lures, save money, and develop a deeper understanding of fish behavior by experimenting with custom designs. By mastering the use of RTV silicone and understanding the properties of molten plastisol, you can turn a small corner of your garage into a custom tackle shop.
At BattlBox, we believe that preparation and skill-building are the foundations of the outdoor lifestyle. We provide the expert-curated gear you need to thrive in the wild, and we encourage you to add these types of hand-crafted skills to your repertoire. Whether you are prepping for a tournament or building a long-term survival kit, the ability to create your own tools is invaluable. If your kit also needs dependable emergency water solutions, BattlBox water purification gear belongs on the shortlist.
- Start with a simple one-part mold for a ribbon-tail worm.
- Focus on safety by using proper ventilation and heat protection.
- Keep a notebook of your "recipes" for color and scent.
Ready to upgrade your outdoor kit with gear chosen by professionals? Subscribe to BattlBox and get high-quality tools and survival equipment delivered to your door every month. Adventure. Delivered.
FAQ
What is the cheapest material for making lure molds?
Plaster of Paris is the most affordable material, but it is fragile and produces lures with a dull, matte finish. For a balance of cost and performance, tin-cure silicone is the best choice for most DIY anglers. It captures excellent detail and can be used hundreds of times if handled with care. For more fishing-focused reading, How to Choose a Fishing Lure for Every Situation is a strong next step.
Can I melt down old plastic lures to make new ones?
Yes, you can recycle old, torn soft plastics by cutting them into small pieces and heating them in a microwave-safe container. Be aware that mixing different brands or colors may result in a "muddy" brown color or inconsistent melting points. Always remove any dirt or salt from the old lures before melting them. If you want more fishing strategy context, What Lures to Use for Fishing is another useful read.
Do I need a vacuum chamber for silicone molds?
While a vacuum chamber is great for removing all air bubbles from the silicone, it is not strictly necessary for hobbyist lure making. Using the "high pour" technique—pouring the silicone in a very thin stream from about 18 inches up—will pop most bubbles before they ever hit your master model. If you want to keep building your kit while you work, BattlBox Pro is a solid fit for gear-focused anglers.
Is the smoke from melting lure plastic dangerous?
The "smoke" is actually vaporized plasticizer and PVC resin, which can be irritating to the lungs and eyes. Always work in a well-ventilated area, such as a garage with the door open or outdoors. If you plan on pouring lures frequently, investing in a respirator with organic vapor cartridges is a smart safety move. For more practical outdoor prep, The Best Fishing Lure offers another useful angle.
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