How to Use Different Fishing Lures

Table of Contents

1. Introduction
2. The Case for Artificial Lures
3. Master the Jig
4. Crankbaits and Plugs
5. Spinnerbaits and Buzzbaits
6. Spoons: The Classic Wobble
7. Soft Plastics and Rigging
8. Topwater Lures: Surface Action
9. Jerkbaits and Swimbaits
10. Choosing the Right Lure for the Conditions
11. Essential Fishing Kit Checklist
12. Conclusion
13. FAQ

Introduction

You are standing on the bank of a glassy lake just as the sun begins to break the horizon. You see a massive ripple thirty feet out, a clear sign that a predator is feeding. You reach into your tackle box, but the sheer variety of plastic, metal, and wood staring back at you is paralyzing. Choosing the wrong tool for the job means a quiet day on the water, while the right choice leads to a bent rod and a heavy net. At BattlBox, we know that having the right gear is only half the battle; knowing how to deploy it effectively is what separates the experts from the amateurs. If you want expert-curated gear delivered monthly, this is exactly the kind of kit-building mindset we value. This guide covers the mechanics of the most common fishing lures, from jigs to topwaters, and explains exactly how to manipulate them to trigger a strike. By understanding these techniques, you will become a more versatile and successful angler in any environment.

The Case for Artificial Lures

While live bait has its place, artificial lures offer several advantages for the serious outdoorsman. Lures allow you to cover more water quickly. You can cast a crankbait dozens of times in the time it takes to baby a single live minnow. Lures are also significantly more durable. You do not have to worry about your bait dying in a bucket or falling off the hook during a long cast.

Using lures also tends to be better for the fish if you practice catch and release. Fish are less likely to "swallow" a lure deeply compared to live bait, which they often gulp down. Most importantly, lures allow you to target specific species by mimicking their exact prey. Whether you are fishing a murky farm pond or a crystal-clear mountain stream, there is a lure designed for that specific scenario. For a broader selection of rugged outdoor tools, our Fishing Collection is a natural place to start.

Quick Answer: To use different fishing lures effectively, you must match the lure's action to the target fish's behavior. This involves varying your retrieval speed, using specific rod tip movements like twitching or hopping, and selecting lures that reach the depth where fish are currently feeding.

Master the Jig

The jig is perhaps the most versatile lure ever created. It consists of a lead or tungsten weight molded onto a hook, usually accompanied by a silicone or hair skirt. Jigs are designed to look like crawfish or baitfish moving along the bottom.

The Vertical Hop

This is the most common way to fish a jig. Cast the lure out and let it sink until your line goes slack. This indicates the jig has reached the bottom. Lift your rod tip from a three o’clock position to a twelve o’clock position in a sharp motion. This makes the jig "hop" off the bottom. As you lower the rod tip back down, reel in the slack. Most strikes happen as the jig is falling back to the floor.

The Drag

In colder water, fish are often lethargic. Instead of hopping the jig, try dragging it. Keep your rod tip low and slowly move it to the side, pulling the jig along the bottom. This kicks up small puffs of silt and sand, mimicking a crawfish scurrying for cover. It is a subtle presentation that can entice even the most stubborn bass or walleye.

The Swim

A swim jig is built with a more streamlined head and a lighter weedguard. Instead of letting it sink to the bottom, you retrieve it through the middle of the water column. You can use a steady retrieve or add small "twitches" with your rod tip to make the skirt flare. This makes the lure look like a panicked baitfish swimming through vegetation. If you want to keep your kit growing month after month, start your BattlBox subscription and build around techniques like this.

Key Takeaway: Always keep a finger on your fishing line when using jigs. Strikes are often subtle "ticks" or a sudden feeling of weightlessness as the fish moves toward you.

Crankbaits and Plugs

Crankbaits, often called plugs, are hard-bodied lures designed to dive when you reel them in. They usually have a plastic "lip" or bill on the front. The size and angle of this lip determine how deep the lure will go.

Using Deflection

One of the biggest mistakes beginners make with crankbaits is trying to keep them away from obstacles. The most effective way to use a crankbait is to intentionally run it into things. When the lure hits a rock, a stump, or a dock piling, it deflects and changes direction suddenly. This erratic movement often triggers a "reaction strike" from a nearby predator that was otherwise just watching the lure.

The Stop-and-Go

While a steady retrieve works, a stop-and-go method is often better. Reel the crankbait for five or six rotations, then stop for two seconds. Because most crankbaits are buoyant, they will slowly begin to float toward the surface when you stop. This looks like a baitfish that is injured or struggling. Be ready for a hit the second you start reeling again. If you are building a general-purpose tackle setup, the Hunting & Fishing collection is worth a look.

Choosing the Depth

• Squarebill Crankbaits: These have a square-shaped lip and are designed for shallow water (1–4 feet). They are excellent for bouncing off timber and rocks.
• Medium Divers: These dive to 8–12 feet. Use these when fish are suspended off drop-offs.
• Deep Divers: These have very large lips and can reach depths of 20 feet or more. These are used for targeting fish on deep ledges or humps.

Spinnerbaits and Buzzbaits

Spinnerbaits are easily recognized by their safety-pin shape. They feature one or more metal blades that spin as the lure moves. This creates both vibration and a flash of light that mimics a school of small fish.

Slow Rolling

In deep or murky water, "slow rolling" is a killer technique. Cast the spinnerbait out and let it sink to the bottom. Reel just fast enough to keep the blades turning but slow enough that the lure stays near the floor. The heavy vibration helps fish find the lure even when they cannot see it clearly.

Burning the Surface

When fish are active and chasing prey near the top, you can "burn" a spinnerbait. Reel as fast as possible so the lure stays just an inch or two below the surface. This creates a wake and a lot of flash. It is an aggressive tactic that works well in clear water or over the tops of submerged grass beds.

Using a Trailer Hook

Spinnerbaits are notorious for "short strikes," where a fish hits the blades but misses the main hook. Adding a trailer hook—a second hook that hangs behind the main one—will significantly increase your hook-up ratio. This is a common trick used by pros to catch fish that are just nipping at the lure.

Spoons: The Classic Wobble

A spoon is a piece of curved metal. Its name comes from the fact that the first ones were literally made from the heads of serving spoons. The curve causes the lure to wobble and flash as it moves.

The Flutter Fall

Spoons are not just for reeling. One of the best ways to fish a spoon is to let it "flutter" down. Cast toward a steep bank or a bridge piling and let the spoon sink on a semi-slack line. The metal will shimmy and flash as it falls, looking like a dying shad. If your line stops sinking before it should, a fish has probably grabbed it.

Trolling and Casting

When casting a spoon, the speed of your retrieve is critical. If you go too fast, the spoon will spin in circles and twist your line. If you go too slow, it will simply drag. You want a speed that creates a side-to-side "thump." This produces the most realistic flash. For another angle on moving lures in current, check out our guide to river fishing lures.

Soft Plastics and Rigging

Soft plastics include worms, craws, lizards, and creature baits. They are made of soft, flexible rubber or silicone. Because they feel natural, fish will often hold onto them longer than they would a hard lure.

The Texas Rig

This is the gold standard for fishing in heavy cover. The hook point is buried back into the body of the plastic worm, making it "weedless." You can throw this into the thickest lily pads or brush piles without snagging.

1. Thread the hook through the top 1/4 inch of the worm.
2. Pull the hook through and rotate it.
3. Measure where the hook bend sits against the worm body.
4. Insert the hook point into the body so it is just barely covered by the "skin" of the plastic.

The Ned Rig

When the fishing is tough, the Ned rig is a lifesaver. It consists of a small, flat-headed jig and a short, stubby plastic worm. It looks like nothing special, but its subtle action is irresistible to pressured fish. The key is to do almost nothing. Cast it out and let it sit. Occasionally give the rod tip a tiny twitch. The buoyant plastic will stand straight up on the bottom, looking like a small aquatic insect or crawfish.

The Drop Shot

A drop shot is a finesse technique where the hook is tied above the weight. This keeps the lure suspended off the bottom at a specific height.

1. Tie a hook to your line using a Palomar knot, leaving a long "tag end" of several feet.
2. Thread the tag end back through the eye of the hook so it stands out horizontally.
3. Attach a weight to the bottom of the tag end.
4. Nose-hook a small plastic worm or minnow. This allows the lure to dance and wiggle in the current while the weight stays stationary on the floor. If you like keeping a compact, ready-to-go setup, the Exotac xREEL Roundabout Kit fits that mindset.

Bottom line: Soft plastics require patience. Most people move them too much. If you aren't getting bites, slow down and let the water's natural movement do the work for you.

Topwater Lures: Surface Action

Nothing in fishing is as exciting as a topwater strike. These lures are designed to float and create a disturbance on the surface. We have included topwaters in many of our Mission deliveries because they are essential for any well-rounded kit. If you are the kind of angler who likes to get the right gear delivered on a schedule, choose your BattlBox subscription.

Walking the Dog

Lures like "Spooks" are cigar-shaped and have no built-in action. You must create the action using a technique called "walking the dog." With your rod tip pointed down toward the water, give the line a series of short, rhythmic twitches while reeling slowly. This makes the lure zig-zag back and forth across the surface. It mimics a wounded baitfish that cannot dive.

Popping

Poppers have a concave "cup" on the front. When you jerk the rod, the lure pushes a mouthful of water forward, creating a loud "bloop" or "pop" sound. This mimics a fish feeding on the surface, which often draws other predators in to investigate.

• Step 1: Cast the popper near cover like a fallen tree or a dock.
• Step 2: Let the ripples from the splash completely disappear.
• Step 3: Give the rod a sharp snap to create the "pop."
• Step 4: Wait 5–10 seconds. Many strikes happen while the lure is sitting perfectly still.

Hollow Body Frogs

If you are fishing in thick vegetation where even a Texas rig might snag, reach for a hollow body frog. These are designed with the hooks hugging the body. They are virtually impossible to snag. Throw them directly onto lily pads or mats of algae. Slowly hop the frog across the vegetation. When a fish hits, wait one or two seconds before setting the hook. If you hook too fast, you will likely pull the lure right out of the fish's mouth.

Jerkbaits and Swimbaits

These lures are designed to look exactly like a single, swimming fish. They are highly effective in clear water where fish rely heavily on their sight.

The Jerkbait Cadence

A jerkbait is an elongated lure with small treble hooks. Unlike a crankbait, which you reel steadily, a jerkbait is worked with "slashes" of the rod. Pull the rod tip sharply twice, then pause for several seconds. In cold water, that pause might need to be as long as 10 or 20 seconds. The lure will "suspend" perfectly in the water column, looking like a baitfish that has been stunned by the cold.

Swimbait Retrieval

Swimbaits can be hard-bodied with joints or made of soft plastic with a paddle tail. The goal here is realism. Use a steady, moderate retrieve. If you are using a soft plastic swimbait, ensure it is rigged perfectly straight on the hook. If it is crooked, it will "roll" or spin in the water, which looks unnatural and will scare fish away.

Choosing the Right Lure for the Conditions

The environment should dictate your lure choice. If you use a deep-diving crankbait in a shallow, weedy pond, you will spend your whole day cleaning grass off your hooks. For more gear built for mixed conditions, the Emergency / Disaster Preparedness collection is a good companion category.

Water Clarity

In clear water, fish can see very well. Use natural colors like translucent greens, browns, and silver. Avoid lures with too much "thump" or noise, as this can spook them. In murky or muddy water, visibility is low. Fish rely on their lateral line to "feel" vibrations. Use lures with large blades (like spinnerbaits), loud rattles, and dark, high-contrast colors like black or dark blue.

Water Temperature

• Cold Water (Below 50°F): Fish are slow. Use lures that can stay in the strike zone for a long time, like jerkbaits or jigs. Move your lures slowly.
• Warm Water (Above 65°F): Fish have high metabolisms and are more aggressive. Use fast-moving lures like crankbaits, topwaters, and "burned" spinnerbaits to trigger reaction strikes.

Time of Day

Low light periods—dawn and dusk—are the prime times for topwater fishing. As the sun gets higher, fish tend to move deeper or tighter into shade and cover. Switch to bottom-bouncing lures like jigs or soft plastics as the day gets brighter. If your fishing often overlaps with camp time, the Camping Collection can round out the rest of your kit.

Essential Fishing Kit Checklist

Whether you are building an emergency kit or a weekend tackle box, you should have at least one of each of the following categories. Our team at BattlBox hand-selects items like these to ensure our subscribers are prepared for any shoreline they encounter. If you want to keep adding gear that fits this kind of checklist, subscribe to BattlBox and let the next box do some of the work.

• Terminal Tackle: A variety of offset hooks, treble hooks, and various weights (bullet, split-shot, and drop-shot weights).
• Hard Baits: At least one shallow crankbait, one topwater popper, and one jerkbait.
• Soft Plastics: A pack of 6-inch worms and a pack of crawfish imitations.
• Wire/Metal Baits: A 3/8 oz spinnerbait and a classic silver spoon.
• Multi-Tool: For cutting line, crimping weights, and removing hooks safely.
• Leader Material: Fluorocarbon for clear water and braided line for heavy cover.

Note: Always check local fishing regulations before heading out. Some areas require barbless hooks or have specific bans on certain types of weights (like lead) to protect the local ecosystem.

Conclusion

Mastering different fishing lures is a journey of observation and adjustment. The best anglers are the ones who pay attention to how the fish are reacting and are willing to change their technique on the fly. Whether you are "walking the dog" with a topwater or "slow rolling" a spinnerbait, the key is to mimic the natural movements of prey. At BattlBox, our mission is to provide the expert-curated gear you need to thrive in the wild. By combining high-quality tools with these proven techniques, you will be prepared to catch your limit every time you hit the water. Practice these movements in clear, shallow water where you can see the lure's action, and soon, these maneuvers will become second nature. To keep that kind of practical gear coming, start your BattlBox subscription today.

Key Takeaway: Success with lures comes down to "matching the hatch." Pay attention to the size and color of the baitfish in the water and choose a lure that mimics them as closely as possible.

FAQ

What is the best lure for a beginner to start with?

A spinnerbait is widely considered the best lure for beginners because it is very easy to use. You simply cast it out and reel it back in at a steady pace, and the spinning blades do all the work of attracting fish. It is also relatively weedless, meaning you won't get snagged as often as you would with lures that have exposed treble hooks. For more hands-on fishing gear, browse the Fishing Collection.

Do I need a different rod for every type of lure?

While professional anglers use specific rods for different techniques, you do not need a dozen rods to be successful. A medium-action spinning or baitcasting rod is a great "all-around" tool that can handle everything from jigs to crankbaits. As you get more advanced, you might want a "stiffer" rod for heavy jigs and a "softer" rod for crankbaits to help keep the fish hooked.

Why am I getting bites but not catching the fish?

This is often due to a poor hook set or using the wrong size hook for the lure. If you are using soft plastics, make sure you are "setting the hook" with a firm, upward snap of the rod. If you are using lures with treble hooks, like crankbaits, do not "snap" the rod; instead, use a steady "sweep" to the side to keep tension on the fish without pulling the hooks out of its mouth. If you want a compact backup option, the Speedhook - Emergency Fishing & Hunting Kit is built for that kind of passive fishing.

Does the color of the lure really matter?

Yes, color matters primarily based on water clarity and light. In clear water, use natural, translucent colors that don't look "fake" under high visibility. In murky water or low light, use bright colors (like chartreuse) or very dark colors (like black or purple) to create a silhouette that the fish can easily see against the background.