What Do You Need to Make Fishing Lures

Table of Contents

1. Introduction
2. The Foundation: Safety and Workspace
3. What You Need for Soft Plastic Lures
4. Step-by-Step: Pouring Your First Soft Plastic Lure
5. What You Need for Hard-Body Lures
6. Customization: Paint, Eyes, and Finishes
7. Common Mistakes to Avoid
8. Managing Costs and Progression
9. Conclusion
10. FAQ

Introduction

There is a specific kind of pride that comes with pulling a five-pound bass out of the weeds using a lure you built with your own hands. Most anglers spend years curating a tackle box full of expensive, mass-produced plastic, but the real masters of the craft know that customization is the key to matching the hatch in local waters. Whether you are looking to save money in the long run or simply want to create a color pattern that the fish in your local pond haven't seen a thousand times, lure making is a natural progression for any serious outdoorsman. At BattlBox, we believe in the "do-it-yourself" spirit, providing the gear and inspiration to help you become more self-reliant in the field. This guide covers the essential tools, materials, and safety equipment you need to start crafting soft plastics and hard-body lures from scratch. By the end, you will understand exactly how to set up your workshop for success. If you want to build your broader outdoor kit while learning this craft, subscribe to BattlBox for expert-curated gear delivered monthly.

Quick Answer: To start making fishing lures, you primarily need a dedicated workspace with high-quality ventilation, safety gear like a respirator and heat-resistant gloves, and specific materials based on the lure type—either Plastisol and molds for soft plastics or balsa wood, wire, and epoxy for hard lures.

The Foundation: Safety and Workspace

Before you buy a single ounce of plastic or a block of wood, you must address your environment. Making fishing lures, especially soft plastics, involves working with high temperatures and chemical fumes. This is not a project for your kitchen table. You need a dedicated, well-ventilated workspace like a garage with the door open or a backyard shed with a powerful exhaust fan.

Essential Safety Gear

Working with molten Plastisol (the liquid plastic used for lures) requires temperatures between 300°F and 350°F. At these temperatures, the material can cause severe burns, and the fumes can be toxic if inhaled over long periods.

• Respirator: A high-quality respirator with organic vapor cartridges is mandatory. Standard dust masks will not protect you from the chemical fumes released by heated plastic.
• Heat-Resistant Gloves: Use heavy-duty leather gloves. Molten plastic sticks like napalm; if it splashes on your skin, it will continue to burn until it cools.
• Eye Protection: Safety goggles are necessary to protect against accidental splashes or "burps" in the plastic during the heating process.
• Long Sleeves and Pants: Even in the summer, wear heavy cotton or canvas clothing to provide a barrier between your skin and any potential spills.

Workspace Setup

Your workbench should be sturdy and easy to clean. Many lure makers use a dedicated microwave for heating plastic. Important: Never use a microwave for food after it has been used to heat Plastisol. The chemical residue makes it unsafe for food preparation. You will also need glass measuring cups (specifically Pyrex or similar heat-resistant brands) for melting the plastic and metal spoons for stirring. Avoid wood or plastic spoons, as they can introduce moisture or melt into your mixture. For more field-ready tools and equipment, explore BattlBox's camping gear collection.

What You Need for Soft Plastic Lures

Soft plastic lures, such as worms, craws, and swimbaits, are the most common starting point for DIY lure makers. The process involves heating a liquid polymer and pouring or injecting it into a mold. It is a repeatable process that allows you to churn out dozens of lures in a single afternoon once your gear is set up. Anglers building a complete tackle setup can also browse the fishing collection.

The Raw Materials

The primary ingredient is Plastisol. This liquid arrives as a milky white substance that turns clear and thickens as it reaches its melting point. It comes in different "durometers" or hardness levels:

1. Soft: Best for finesse worms and lures that need maximum action. These tear more easily.
2. Medium: The all-around choice for most bass lures.
3. Hard/Saltwater: Used for lures that need to withstand high-speed trolling or the sharp teeth of saltwater predators.

You will also need colorants (liquid dyes specifically made for Plastisol), glitter (high-heat resistant only), and scents like garlic, crawfish, or coffee. For compact fishing components that can supplement a custom lure kit, consider the Exotac xREEL Roundabout Kit.

Molds and Injectors

There are two ways to get your liquid plastic into a shape: open-pour molds and injection molds.

• Open-Pour Molds: These are the simplest. You pour the hot plastic into a cavity from the top. They are often made of silicone, resin, or plaster of Paris. These are great for beginners but usually result in a lure with one flat side.
• Injection Molds: These are two-piece molds made of aluminum. You use a metal injector (essentially a large, heat-resistant syringe) to force the plastic into the mold. This allows for fully rounded, professional-looking lures with intricate details.

Key Takeaway: Start with medium-blend Plastisol and a few silicone open-pour molds to learn the temperature transitions of the plastic before investing in expensive aluminum injection systems.

Step-by-Step: Pouring Your First Soft Plastic Lure

Step 1: Prep the Plastic. Shake your liquid Plastisol thoroughly to distribute the settled particles. Pour the desired amount into a glass measuring cup.

Step 2: Heat in Intervals. Place the cup in the dedicated microwave. Heat for one minute, then stir. Continue heating in 30-second bursts until the plastic turns from a milky liquid to a thick, syrup-like consistency (around 320°F to 350°F).

Step 3: Add Color and Glitter. Once the plastic is clear and molten, add your liquid dyes and high-heat glitter. Stir slowly to avoid creating air bubbles, which can weaken the lure.

Step 4: The Pour. If using an open-pour mold, slowly pour the plastic into the cavity starting from the head and moving toward the tail. If using an injector, draw the plastic into the tool and slowly press it into the injection port of the aluminum mold.

Step 5: Cooling and Curing. Let the lure sit in the mold for 3–5 minutes. Once firm, remove it and place it in a tray of cool water to finalize the shape. For the best results, let the lures "cure" on a flat surface for 24 hours before putting them in a tackle bag. For more ideas about compact fishing equipment, read this guide to fishing gear for bushcraft life.

What You Need for Hard-Body Lures

Making hard lures like crankbaits, topwater poppers, or jerkbaits requires a different set of skills—primarily woodworking and basic engineering. While you can buy plastic "blanks" to paint, carving your own from wood is a staple of the craft. A bushcraft knife guide can also help you think through the cutting tools used for shaping lure bodies.

Wood Selection

Most DIY hard lures are made from Balsa or Basswood. Balsa is extremely buoyant and easy to carve with a simple craft knife, but it is fragile and requires a strong outer coating. Basswood is slightly harder and more durable, making it a better choice for lures that will be bounced off rocks or docks. For more detailed wooden-lure techniques, explore this beginner's guide to making wooden fishing lures.

Hardware and Components

A wooden lure isn't much good without the hardware to hold it together and attract fish. You will need:

• Stainless Steel Wire: Usually 0.030 to 0.050 inches in diameter. This is used to create the "through-wire" construction that connects the line tie to the hook hangers.
• Lead Weights: Small split shots or lead wire used to balance the lure so it sits correctly in the water.
• Lure Lips (Bills): Usually made from polycarbonate (Lexan) or circuit board material. These determine the diving depth and action of the lure.
• Screw Eyes: An alternative to through-wire for harder woods.
• Epoxy: A clear, two-part waterproof epoxy is used to seal the wood and provide a glass-like topcoat.

For fishing hardware and field accessories that complement a custom tackle setup, see the Exotac xREEL Roundabout Kit.

Essential Tools for Hard Lures

You don't need a full woodshop, but a few precision tools are necessary. We have seen many members of our community build incredible lures using just a handful of hand tools.

1. Craft Knife/Scalpel: For shaping the wood.
2. Sandpaper: Various grits (120, 220, and 400) to smooth the body.
3. Wire-Bending Pliers: For creating neat loops in your stainless steel wire.
4. Small Hacksaw: For cutting the "lip slot" where the diving bill will be glued.
5. Small Drill Bits: For creating cavities for lead weights.

For broader blade and utility options, explore the hunting and fishing collection.

Key Takeaway: The "action" of a hard lure is determined by the placement of the internal weights and the angle of the diving lip; always test your lure's balance in a sink or tub before applying the final paint and epoxy.

Customization: Paint, Eyes, and Finishes

Once you have the body of your lure—whether soft or hard—the final step is making it look like prey. This is where your creativity comes into play.

Painting Your Lures

For soft plastics, color is usually mixed into the liquid plastic. However, for hard lures, you will need to paint the exterior.

• Airbrushing: This is the gold standard for lure making. A basic airbrush and compressor allow you to create smooth gradients, "scales" (using mesh as a stencil), and realistic gill plates. Water-based acrylic paints are the most common choice.
• Brushing: For beginners, you can use high-quality acrylics and a fine-tipped brush for detail work.
• 3D Eyes: Adhesive 3D eyes give the lure a focal point for predators. Most lure makers drill a small "eye socket" so the eyes sit flush with the body.

If you want to compare different lure-building approaches, read this complete guide to making and selling fishing lures.

The Topcoat (Hard Lures Only)

Without a topcoat, your paint will chip, and your wooden lure will waterlog and rot. A two-part epoxy (like Devcon 2-Ton or specialized lure-turning epoxies) is the most common solution. You apply a thin layer with a brush and then rotate the lure slowly for several hours as it cures to ensure the epoxy doesn't sag or drip.

Note: Always clean your lure with a tack cloth or rubbing alcohol before applying the topcoat. Fingerprint oils can cause the epoxy to "fish-eye" or pull away from the surface.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Lure making is a hobby of trial and error. Even seasoned pros occasionally "burn" a batch of plastic or carve a crankbait that spins instead of wobbles.

• Overheating Plastic: If your Plastisol starts to smell like burnt rubber or turns yellow/brown, it is scorched. This makes the plastic brittle and weak. Use an infrared thermometer to ensure you stay under 350°F.
• Ignoring Moisture: Moisture is the enemy of molten plastic. If you use a wooden stirring stick or if a drop of water gets into your hot plastic, it will "explode" or bubble violently. Keep your tools bone-dry.
• Skipping the Sealant: On wooden lures, if you don't seal the wood before painting, the paint will soak into the grain, and air bubbles will ruin your finish. Use a thin coat of superglue (CA glue) or a sanding sealer first.
• Rushing the Cure: It is tempting to take a new lure straight to the pond. However, epoxies and soft plastics need time to reach their maximum chemical bond. Waiting 24 to 48 hours ensures the lure won't fall apart on the first strike.

Managing Costs and Progression

The upfront cost of making lures can be significant. A dedicated microwave, respirator, molds, and a gallon of Plastisol can easily run into the hundreds of dollars. It is important to view this as a hobby and a skill-building exercise rather than a way to save five dollars on a bag of worms immediately.

As you progress, you might find yourself moving from simple "stick bait" molds to complex multi-color pours or hand-carved swimbaits with intricate joints. We often feature high-quality tackle and outdoor tools in our BattlBox missions, and many of these tools—like precision knives and multi-tools—become the backbone of a lure maker’s kit. When you are ready to keep building your outdoor setup, get expert-curated gear delivered monthly.

Bottom line: Start small by mastering one type of lure (like a simple 5-inch worm) before attempting to build complex hard-body lures or investing in expensive airbrushing setups.

Conclusion

Learning what you need to make fishing lures is the first step in a rewarding journey that connects you more deeply to the water. By setting up a safe workspace, choosing the right Plastisol or wood, and practicing the patience required for curing and painting, you can create gear that rivals anything on the shelf of a big-box retailer. Lure making isn't just about catching fish; it’s about the self-reliance and creativity that defines the modern outdoorsman. Our mission at BattlBox is to equip you with the gear and the knowledge to take your outdoor skills to the next level. Whether you are building a survival kit or a custom tackle box, the best gear is always the gear you know how to use—or in this case, the gear you know how to build. Choose your BattlBox subscription and keep that self-reliant mindset moving into your next project.

FAQ

Is making your own fishing lures cheaper than buying them?

Initially, no. The cost of safety equipment, molds, and materials means your first few lures will be quite expensive. However, once you have the equipment, the "per-lure" cost drops significantly, especially for soft plastics where you can often remelt old, torn lures into new ones.

Can I melt down old fishing lures to make new ones?

Yes, you can chop up old, clean soft plastic lures and remelt them in a microwave. Be sure to remove any hooks or dirt first. Keep in mind that mixing different brands may result in strange textures or colors, but it is a great way to recycle "dead" baits.

Do I really need a respirator to make soft plastic lures?

Yes, absolutely. When Plastisol is heated to its melting point, it releases fumes that can cause respiratory irritation and long-term health issues if inhaled regularly. Always use a respirator with organic vapor cartridges and work in a well-ventilated area.

What is the best wood for a beginner to carve lures?

Balsa wood is the best for beginners because it is very soft and easy to shape with a basic hobby knife. While it requires a bit more care to seal and reinforce, the ease of carving makes it much more forgiving than harder woods like cedar or maple.