How to Use Different Types of Fishing Lures for More Bites

Table of Contents

1. Introduction
2. Why Choose Lures Over Bait?
3. How to Use Plugs and Crankbaits
4. Master the Vertical: How to Use Jigs
5. Flash and Vibration: Using Spinnerbaits
6. The Art of the Wobble: How to Use Fishing Spoons
7. Versatility at its Finest: Using Soft Plastics
8. Surface Action: Topwater Lure Techniques
9. Matching the Hatch: Choosing the Right Lure
10. Safety and Maintenance in the Field
11. Building Your Survival Fishing Kit
12. Conclusion
13. FAQ

Introduction

You are standing on the edge of a quiet lake at dawn, watching the surface break as a heavy bass lunges for a dragonfly. You have a tackle box full of brightly colored plastic and metal, but if you don't know the specific mechanics of how to move those tools through the water, they are just expensive jewelry for the lake bottom. At BattlBox, we believe that self-reliance means mastering the tools you carry, and few tools are as essential for long-term survival and outdoor enjoyment as a well-stocked fishing kit. If you want that kind of field-ready gear delivered monthly, subscribe to BattlBox. This guide covers the essential mechanics of "working" a lure, from the vertical hop of a jig to the erratic twitch of a jerkbait. By the end of this article, you will understand how to choose and manipulate the right lure for any water condition.

Quick Answer: To use fishing lures effectively, you must match the retrieval technique to the lure's design. Jigs require a vertical "hopping" motion on the bottom, crankbaits need a steady or "stop-and-go" horizontal retrieve to dive, and topwater lures require rod-tip twitches to create surface splashes that mimic struggling prey.

Why Choose Lures Over Bait?

Before diving into specific techniques, it is important to understand why lures are often superior to live bait in many scenarios. While live bait relies on scent and natural movement, lures allow you to cover significantly more water in a shorter amount of time. If you're building a broader fishing setup, start with our Fishing Collection. This is critical in a survival or scouting situation where you need to locate fish quickly.

Lures also offer more durability. A single spinnerbait can catch dozens of fish, whereas a single worm is gone the moment a bluegill nibbles it off the hook. However, lures require more skill; you are the one providing the "life" to the bait. If your movement is robotic or unnatural, the fish will ignore it.

How to Use Plugs and Crankbaits

Plugs, often referred to as crankbaits or jerkbaits, are hard-bodied lures usually made of plastic or wood. Most feature a "lip" or "bill" on the front. If you want a deeper dive into lure selection, What Fishing Lure to Use Today breaks down the decision process. This bill acts like an airplane wing in reverse; as you pull the lure through the water, the water pressure on the bill forces the lure to dive downward.

Using Crankbaits

Crankbaits are designed for a steady retrieve. The size and angle of the bill determine how deep the lure will go. To use a crankbait effectively, cast it out and begin a steady reel-in. You should feel the vibration of the lure through your rod handle. If you want more field-tested gear for your next trip, choose your BattlBox subscription.

If the vibration stops, you may have snagged a weed, or a fish may have grabbed the lure and is swimming toward you. A highly effective technique is the "stop-and-go." Reel for five or six rotations, then stop for two seconds. Many predatory fish follow a lure and only strike when they think the "prey" has paused or become exhausted.

Using Jerkbaits

Jerkbaits are typically long and slender with a very small bill. Unlike crankbaits, they are not meant for a steady retrieve. To use a jerkbait, you use your rod tip to "jerk" the lure forward two or three times, then let it sit perfectly still. If you want a broader look at lure basics, How to Use Different Fishing Lures covers the mechanics in more detail.

In cold water, the pause is everything. Bass are cold-blooded and move slowly in the winter; they may watch a jerkbait for ten seconds before deciding to strike. When you twitch the rod, keep some slack in the line so the lure can dart side-to-side erratically.

Key Takeaway: The "pause" in your retrieval is often the most important part of the movement, as it triggers the predatory instinct to strike a vulnerable target.

Master the Vertical: How to Use Jigs

Jigs are perhaps the most versatile lure in existence. A jig consists of a weighted lead head molded onto a hook, usually covered by a rubber skirt or a soft plastic "grub." Because they are heavy, they sink quickly, making them the king of bottom-fishing. For another way to think through lure choice, What Lures to Use for Freshwater Fishing is a useful next read.

The Bottom Hop

The most common way to fish a jig is the "bottom hop." After casting, wait until your line goes slack, which indicates the jig has hit the bottom. Lift your rod tip from the 9 o’clock position to the 11 o’clock position with a sharp flick. This causes the jig to "jump" off the bottom like a fleeing crawfish. As you lower the rod tip back down, reel in the excess slack, but keep a slight tension so you can feel a "thump" if a fish hits it on the way down.

Swimming the Jig

In heavy vegetation, you can "swim" a jig. Instead of letting it hit the bottom, keep a steady, slow retrieve while occasionally shaking the rod tip. This keeps the skirt pulsating and prevents the heavy head from getting buried in the mud or tangled in deep weeds. When we include jigs in our Fishing Collection, we focus on versions with "weed guards"—small bristles that protect the hook point from snagging on timber or grass.

Flash and Vibration: Using Spinnerbaits

A spinnerbait looks nothing like a fish. It consists of a V-shaped wire with a weighted hook on one side and one or more spinning metal blades on the other. Despite its strange appearance, it is a "reaction bait" that triggers a strike through vibration and light reflection. If you like this kind of practical gear, subscribe to BattlBox and let the next box show up ready for the field.

The Steady Retrieve

The basic way to use a spinnerbait is a steady horizontal retrieve. You want the blades to be spinning fast enough that you feel a "thump-thump-thump" in the rod. If you don't feel the vibration, you are reeling too slowly.

Slow Rolling

For deeper fish, use a technique called "slow rolling." Use a heavier spinnerbait and reel just fast enough to keep the blades turning as the lure crawls along the bottom. This is excellent for targeting big bass near submerged logs.

Burning the Surface

Conversely, "burning" a spinnerbait involves a very fast retrieve so the blades actually break the surface of the water, creating a loud splashing sound. This is a high-energy tactic for when fish are aggressively feeding in the shallows.

Note: Always check your spinnerbait wire after a catch. Large fish can bend the wire out of alignment, which will cause the lure to track sideways instead of straight.

The Art of the Wobble: How to Use Fishing Spoons

Spoons are among the oldest lures in the world, dating back to when people literally cut the handles off silver spoons and drilled holes in them. Their concave shape causes them to wobble and flutter as they move. If you're building a compact kit for the water, the Hunting & Fishing Collection is a smart place to start.

Casting Spoons

When casting a spoon, the speed of your reel is vital. If you reel too fast, the spoon will simply spin in circles, which twists your line and looks unnatural. You want a speed that makes the spoon "wobble" back and forth like a wounded minnow.

Fluttering and Jigging

Spoons are also excellent for vertical fishing. If you are in a boat over a school of fish, drop the spoon straight down. Lift it up three feet and let it "flutter" back down on a semi-slack line. The light reflecting off the metal mimics a dying shad or baitfish falling through the water column.

Versatility at its Finest: Using Soft Plastics

Soft plastics are rubbery lures molded into the shapes of worms, crawfish, frogs, or lizards. They are unique because they feel "natural" to a fish. When a fish bites a hard plastic crankbait, it often spits it out immediately. When it bites a soft plastic worm, it will often hold on, giving you more time to set the hook. If you're dialing in a compact kit, the Exotac xREEL Roundabout Kit is a useful add-on.

The Texas Rig

This is the most common way to use a soft plastic worm. The hook point is buried back into the body of the worm, making it "weedless."

1. Cast: Throw the worm near structure like lily pads or fallen trees.
2. Sink: Let it hit the bottom completely.
3. The Drag: Instead of hopping it, slowly drag the worm across the bottom by moving your rod tip to the side.
4. The Feel: Watch your line. If it twitches or starts moving sideways, a fish has the lure.

The Ned Rig

The Ned Rig is a "finesse" technique using a small, 3-inch plastic stick on a light mushroom-shaped jig head. To use this, you do almost nothing. Let it sit on the bottom. The high-buoyancy plastic will stand straight up. Every few seconds, give the rod a tiny "dead stick" twitch. This is a primary tactic for when the fishing is tough and the fish are not aggressive. For more on the category, browse the Fishing Collection.

Bottom line: Soft plastics require patience. You are mimicking slow-moving creatures like worms or craws, so avoid the temptation to reel too fast.

Surface Action: Topwater Lure Techniques

Topwater fishing is widely considered the most exciting form of angling because you can see the fish strike. These lures are designed to float and create a disturbance on the surface. If you want more examples of this style, Must-Have Fishing Lures for Every Angler is a strong next step.

Walking the Dog

Lures like the "Spook" are cigar-shaped and have no built-in action. You must "walk the dog" by rhythmic twitching of the rod tip while reeling slowly. This makes the lure zig-zag across the surface. It takes practice to get the rhythm right, but it is one of the most effective ways to call big predators from deep water.

Poppers

Poppers have a cupped face. When you jerk the rod, the face "pops" and throws a spray of water forward.

• Step 1: Cast near a likely hiding spot (like an overhanging bush).
• Step 2: Let the ripples from the splash disappear completely.
• Step 3: Give it one sharp "pop."
• Step 4: Wait 5 to 10 seconds.
• Step 5: Repeat.

Often, the fish is watching the lure and waiting for it to move again before striking.

Matching the Hatch: Choosing the Right Lure

Understanding how to move a lure is only half the battle; you also need to know when to use which one. This is often called "matching the hatch." If you see small, silver minnows jumping in the shallows, a silver spinnerbait or a small silver crankbait is your best bet. If the water is muddy and you can't see anything, choose a lure that makes noise or vibration, like a Colorado-blade spinnerbait or a lipless crankbait with internal rattles.

Water temperature also plays a massive role.

• Cold Water (Below 50°F): Use slow-moving lures like jigs, jerkbaits (with long pauses), or spoons.
• Warm Water (Above 60°F): Use faster baits like spinnerbaits, crankbaits, and topwater lures.

Safety and Maintenance in the Field

Fishing lures are covered in sharp hooks, often treble hooks (three hooks joined together). When using these, safety is paramount. Always carry a pair of needle-nose pliers or a dedicated multi-tool to remove hooks. Trying to remove a hook from a thrashing pike with your bare hands is a recipe for an emergency room visit. For related preparedness gear, see Medical & Safety.

Furthermore, keep your hooks sharp. A dull hook will bounce off the hard jaw of a large fish. We recommend carrying a small hook hone or diamond file in your EDC (Everyday Carry) kit to touch up points after they've been dragged over rocks. If you want a compact field-fix option, the Exotac xREEL fits that mindset well.

Myth: "Bigger lures always catch bigger fish." Fact: While large lures can deter smaller fish, some of the biggest bass and trout are caught on tiny finesse baits. Match the size of the lure to the actual baitfish present in the water, not just the size of the fish you hope to catch.

Building Your Survival Fishing Kit

In a survival scenario, you cannot afford to lose your only lure. This is why we advocate for a balanced approach to your gear. Your kit should include at least one of each major category: a couple of jigs, a handful of soft plastics, one reliable spinnerbait, and a versatile spoon.

Our community of outdoorsmen often discusses how to simplify their "go-bags" or "scout kits." You don't need a massive tackle box to be effective. A small, pocket-sized container with five or six well-chosen lures can provide enough food to sustain you in the backcountry if you know how to work them. If you want a compact, field-ready setup, Exotac xREEL belongs on the shortlist.

Our mission is to ensure you have the highest quality gear to face these challenges. Every month, our team of professionals hand-selects gear across categories like survival, bushcraft, and emergency preparedness to help you build a robust kit. Whether you are a beginner or a seasoned pro, having the right lure—and the knowledge to use it—is a vital part of your outdoor lifestyle. For more outdoors-first gear, explore Hunting & Fishing.

Conclusion

Mastering the use of different fishing lures is a journey of trial and error. Start with a steady retrieve to get a feel for how a lure vibrates, then begin introducing pauses, twitches, and hops. Remember that the water temperature and clarity should dictate your lure choice and speed. Practice these techniques on your local pond before you find yourself relying on them in a high-stakes scenario.

• Master the pause to trigger strikes.
• Keep your hooks sharp for better hook-up ratios.
• Vary your retrieval speed until the fish tell you what they want.
• Always carry pliers for safe hook removal.

The best gear is the gear you know how to use. To get expert-curated fishing and survival gear delivered to your door, subscribe to BattlBox and join a community that takes preparation seriously. Adventure. Delivered.

FAQ

What is the best lure for a beginner to start with?

The spinnerbait is arguably the best lure for beginners because it is "weedless" and easy to use. You simply cast it out and reel it back at a steady pace; the lure’s design handles all the vibration and flash for you. It works in almost all water conditions and targets a wide variety of predatory fish.

How do I know how deep my crankbait is diving?

The depth of a crankbait is primarily determined by the size and angle of its plastic bill. Longer, flatter bills dive deeper (sometimes up to 20 feet), while short, vertical bills stay near the surface (1 to 3 feet). Most manufacturers print the diving depth on the packaging, but you can also tell it has reached its maximum depth when you feel it start to "dig" into the bottom.

Why am I getting bites but not catching the fish?

This usually happens because of a poor hook-set or dull hooks. When using soft plastics, you must "set the hook" with a firm upward snap of the rod to drive the point through the rubber and into the fish's jaw. If you are using lures with treble hooks, avoid a massive hook-set, as you might pull the lure right out of the fish's mouth; instead, keep a steady pressure and let the sharp hooks do the work.

Do lure colors really matter?

Color matters, but not as much as the lure's action and depth. A good rule of thumb is "Bright day, bright colors; Dark day, dark colors." In clear water, use natural colors like green, brown, or silver. In murky or muddy water, use high-contrast colors like black and blue or neon chartreuse so the fish can see the silhouette more easily.