Battlbox
What Are Fishing Lures Made Of? Materials and Construction
Table of Contents
- Introduction
- The Foundation of Soft Plastics: Plastisol and Beyond
- Hard Baits: Wood vs. Synthetic Polymers
- Metal Lures: The Heavy Hitters
- Natural and Composite Materials: The Finery
- How Fishing Lures Are Manufactured
- The Hardware: Hooks, Rings, and Wires
- Environmental Considerations in Material Selection
- Building Your Own: A Practical Starting Point
- Summary Checklist for Choosing Lure Materials
- Conclusion
- FAQ
Introduction
Every angler knows the feeling of standing over a tackle box, debating which lure will finally trigger a strike. You look at the shimmering scales of a crankbait, the wiggly tail of a soft plastic worm, and the heavy thud of a metal jig. While we often focus on the color or the "action" of these tools, the actual composition of the lure determines how it moves, how deep it dives, and how long it lasts. At BattlBox, we prioritize gear that stands up to real-world use, and understanding the physical makeup of your tackle is a foundational skill for any serious outdoorsman. This guide breaks down exactly what fishing lures are made of, from traditional hardwoods to modern polymers and specialized metals. By understanding these materials, you can make better decisions on the water and even begin experimenting with your own custom builds.
If you want to keep building a capable outdoor kit, get expert-curated gear delivered monthly through BattlBox.
The Foundation of Soft Plastics: Plastisol and Beyond
Soft plastic lures are perhaps the most versatile tools in a modern angler’s kit. Whether it is a six-inch lizard for bass or a tiny grub for panfish, the primary ingredient is almost always plastisol.
What is Plastisol?
Plastisol is a suspension of PVC (polyvinyl chloride) particles in a liquid plasticizer. In its raw form, it looks like a thick, milky liquid. When heated to approximately 320 degrees Fahrenheit, the mixture undergoes a chemical change called gelation. As it cools, it transforms into the flexible, rubbery material we recognize as a fishing lure.
The beauty of plastisol is its adjustability. By changing the ratio of resin to plasticizer, manufacturers can create "super soft" plastics for drop-shotting or "hard" plastics for heavy-duty saltwater applications.
For a deeper look at this material, read what soft fishing lures are made of.
Essential Additives
Raw plastic alone rarely catches fish. To make these lures effective, several additives are mixed in during the heating process:
- Colorants: Concentrated liquid pigments give the lure its hue, from "green pumpkin" to "electric chicken."
- Glitter: Small flakes of polyester or aluminum provide the "flash" that mimics fish scales.
- Scent and Flavor: Oils derived from shrimp, crawfish, or shad are often cooked into the plastic so the fish holds on longer after the strike.
- Salt: Finely ground salt is added to increase the weight of the lure, allowing it to sink faster. It also adds a texture that fish find appealing.
Quick Answer: Most fishing lures are made from three primary materials: plastisol (for soft baits), ABS plastic or hardwood like balsa and cedar (for hard baits), and metals like brass, lead, or steel (for spoons and jigs).
Hard Baits: Wood vs. Synthetic Polymers
Before the rise of modern plastics, all hard lures were carved from wood. Today, while high-tech polymers dominate the market, wood still holds a prestigious place in many tackle boxes.
Traditional Wood Lures
Wood lures are prized for their unique buoyancy and "searching" action that synthetic materials often struggle to replicate.
- Balsa Wood: Extremely lightweight and buoyant. Balsa lures, like the classic original floating minnows, have a very tight, fast vibration. However, they are fragile and can be easily crushed by a toothy predator.
- Cedar: Much denser and more durable than balsa. Cedar is often used for larger topwater "plugs" or heavy-duty saltwater lures because it can withstand significant impact and carries weight well for long casts.
- Pine and Ayous: These are middle-ground woods used for various crankbaits and jerkbaits, offering a balance of durability and lift.
Modern ABS Plastic
The majority of hard baits you see today are made from ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene) plastic. This material is favored because it is incredibly tough and can be injection-molded into complex shapes.
ABS lures are typically made of two halves that are ultrasonically welded together. This creates a hollow chamber inside the lure. We often see these chambers filled with steel or tungsten "rattles" that create sound underwater. Because ABS is transparent in its raw form, it allows for "ghost" or translucent color patterns that are impossible to achieve with wood.
For more detail on the manufacturing process, explore how fishing lures are made.
Key Takeaway: Wood lures offer a natural, high-buoyancy action that is great for shallow water, while ABS plastic lures provide superior durability and the ability to include internal rattles for deep-water attraction.
Metal Lures: The Heavy Hitters
Metal lures like spoons, spinners, and jigs rely on weight and light reflection rather than realistic "wiggle." The choice of metal significantly impacts the lure's sink rate and the "clack" sound it makes when hitting rocks.
Common Metals in Lure Making
- Lead: Traditionally the most common material for jig heads. It is cheap, easy to melt, and very dense. However, due to environmental concerns, many areas are transitioning away from lead.
- Tungsten: The modern professional’s choice. Tungsten is nearly twice as dense as lead. This means a 1/2-ounce tungsten jig is much smaller than a 1/2-ounce lead jig. This smaller profile helps the lure slip through heavy cover and provides better "feedback" to the angler.
- Brass and Steel: These are primarily used for spinner blades and the "bodies" of in-line spinners. Brass provides a distinct, high-pitched vibration that many anglers swear by for trout and salmon.
- Zinc: Often used as a non-toxic alternative to lead for jig heads and sinkers.
Anglers building a broader tackle setup can browse BattlBox’s Hunting & Fishing collection.
The Anatomy of a Spoon
Spoons are usually stamped from sheets of stainless steel, brass, or copper.
- Stainless Steel: Used for high-durability and corrosion resistance in saltwater.
- Brass: Often plated with silver or gold. It has a specific weight that allows for a "fluttering" fall.
- Copper: Frequently used for trolling applications where a specific weight and duller flash are required.
Natural and Composite Materials: The Finery
Not all lures are molded or stamped. Many of the most effective lures in history—and today—are "tied." This is especially true for jigs and flies.
Hair and Feathers
Bucktail (hair from the tail of a white-tailed deer) is perhaps the most famous natural material. It has a hollow structure that allows it to flare out in the water, creating a large profile without adding much weight.
- Marabou: These are soft feathers from turkeys that move with even the slightest current.
- Hackles: Stiffer feathers from chickens used to create the "legs" or bodies of flies.
For a broader look at lure choices and applications, see the best lures for fishing.
Modern Silicone and Rubber
If you look at a bass spinnerbait or a flippin' jig, you will see a "skirt." In the past, these were made of flat rubber strips. Today, they are almost exclusively made of silicone. Silicone is more durable than rubber, does not stick together in the heat, and can be produced in thousands of vibrant colors.
How Fishing Lures Are Manufactured
Understanding how these items are made helps you appreciate the quality of the gear we include in our missions. There are three main ways a lure goes from raw material to your tackle box.
1. Injection Molding
This is the standard for mass-produced hard and soft plastics.
Step 1: Metal molds are CNC-machined into the precise shape of the lure.
Step 2: Molten plastic (ABS or Plastisol) is injected into the mold under high pressure.
Step 3: The lure is cooled quickly, removed from the mold, and sent to the painting line.
2. Hand-Pouring
Commonly used for high-end soft plastics.
Step 1: Plastic is heated in small batches to ensure color consistency.
Step 2: The angler or manufacturer pours the plastic into an "open-face" mold.
Step 3: This allows for "laminated" colors (one color on top, one on the bottom) that look more realistic than injection-molded baits.
Anglers interested in making their own baits can follow this practical fishing-lure supply guide.
3. Turning and Carving
Used for high-end wood lures.
Step 1: A block of wood is placed on a lathe and turned into a basic cylindrical shape.
Step 2: Detail carving is done by hand or machine to create the face and tail.
Step 3: The wood is sealed with a waterproof primer before being painted and clear-coated.
| Material Type | Primary Use | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|---|
| Plastisol | Soft worms, swimbaits | Lifelike texture, cheap | Tears easily, one-time use |
| ABS Plastic | Crankbaits, topwaters | Extremely durable, loud | Can feel "mechanical" |
| Balsa Wood | Shallow crankbaits | High buoyancy, natural | Fragile, hard to cast far |
| Tungsten | Jig heads, weights | High density, high feel | Expensive |
| Silicone | Lure skirts | Great movement, durable | Can be bulky |
The Hardware: Hooks, Rings, and Wires
The body of the lure gets the fish to bite, but the hardware keeps it on the line. Most lure hardware is made of high-carbon steel or stainless steel.
- Hooks: Most hooks are forged from carbon steel and then chemically sharpened. They are often coated in "Black Nickel" or "Tin" to prevent rust.
- Split Rings: These are the small circular wires that connect the hook to the lure body. They act as a hinge, preventing the fish from using the lure as a lever to pry the hook out of its mouth.
- Through-Wire Construction: In high-quality lures, especially those designed for large predators, a single piece of stainless steel wire runs from the front eyelet to the back hook. This ensures that even if the lure body breaks, you are still connected to the fish.
For more guidance on choosing hook styles and sizes, read what hooks to use for fishing.
A compact Exotac xREEL Roundabout fishing kit also organizes hooks, lures, weights, and a stringer in a small format.
Myth: A bigger lure always requires a bigger hook.
Fact: Hook size should be balanced to the lure's action. A hook that is too large or heavy can "kill" the vibration of a delicate balsa wood lure or cause a suspending jerkbait to sink like a stone.
Environmental Considerations in Material Selection
As outdoorsmen, we have a responsibility to protect the waters we fish. This has led to a major shift in what fishing lures are made of.
The Rise of Non-Toxic Weights: Lead poisoning in waterfowl is a serious issue. Because of this, many manufacturers are switching to tungsten, steel, or bismuth for weights. While these materials are more expensive, they are safer for the ecosystem.
Biodegradable Soft Plastics: Traditional plastisol is a form of plastic that can take decades to break down. New "bio-plastics" are being developed that are made from corn-based resins or other organic materials. These are designed to break down much faster if they are lost in the water. We always encourage our community to dispose of used soft plastics in the trash rather than throwing them overboard.
For additional outdoor equipment that supports responsible preparation, explore the Fishing Collection.
Building Your Own: A Practical Starting Point
Understanding these materials opens the door to DIY lure making. If you want to start, the easiest entry point is the "Hand-Pour" method for soft plastics.
Step 1: Purchase a small amount of liquid plastisol and a microwave-safe glass measuring cup.
Step 2: Find a silicone or aluminum mold of a simple shape, like a "stick bait" or "ribbon tail worm."
Step 3: Heat the plastic in 30-second intervals until it reaches 320 degrees and becomes clear and runny.
Step 4: Add your colorant and glitter, then carefully pour the mixture into the mold.
Step 5: Let it cool for 5 minutes, then "quench" the lure in a bucket of cold water to set the shape.
For a DIY walkthrough that focuses on the process, read how to make fishing lures step by step.
Note: Always work in a well-ventilated area when heating plastic. The fumes from overheated plastisol can be irritating to the lungs. Wear gloves and eye protection to avoid burns from the 300-degree liquid.
A compact field repair kit can also complement a fishing setup with line, repair tape, and other useful components.
Summary Checklist for Choosing Lure Materials
When you are heading out on your next adventure, keep these material-based tips in mind:
- Check the Buoyancy: Use wood for shallow, "stop-and-go" retrieves where you need the lure to float up away from snags.
- Listen to the Sound: Use ABS plastic with internal rattles in muddy water or low-light conditions so fish can find the lure by sound.
- Feel the Bottom: Choose tungsten jigs when fishing deep rocks or gravel. The hardness of the metal will transmit the "tick" of the bottom much better than soft lead.
- Match the Profile: Use natural bucktail or marabou in very clear water. These materials have a subtle, lifelike movement that doesn't "spook" wary fish.
- Inspect the Hardware: Ensure your hooks are high-carbon steel and the split rings are tight. A lure is only as good as the steel that holds the fish.
For another perspective on matching lure profiles to conditions, explore what lures attract what fish.
Conclusion
Whether it's the high-pitched vibration of a brass spinner blade or the silent, fluid glide of a hand-poured swimbait, the materials used in fishing lures are carefully chosen to exploit a fish's predatory instincts. From the chemistry of plastisol to the physics of tungsten density, every component serves a purpose. At BattlBox, we believe that being prepared means more than just having the gear—it means knowing how your gear works and why it was built that way. Our mission is to deliver the expert-curated equipment you need to build your skills and your confidence in the wild. As you refine your tackle box, remember that the best lure is the one you understand how to use in the specific conditions you face.
To get the best outdoor and survival gear delivered straight to your door, including the cutting-edge tackle we've discussed today, choose your BattlBox subscription.
FAQ
Is lead still the best material for fishing jigs?
While lead is traditional and inexpensive, many modern anglers prefer tungsten. Tungsten is much denser, allowing for a smaller profile that sinks faster and provides better sensitivity when dragging along the bottom. Many states also have restrictions on lead, making non-toxic alternatives a smarter long-term investment for your kit.
Why are some lures made of wood instead of plastic?
Wood, specifically balsa and cedar, offers a unique buoyancy that plastic often cannot perfectly replicate. A wood lure "backs out" of snags more effectively and has a more erratic, natural swimming action. However, wood is generally less durable and more expensive to manufacture than injection-molded plastic.
What is the difference between silicone and rubber skirts?
Rubber was the original material for lure skirts, but it tends to dry out, crack, and stick together over time. Silicone is much more resilient, maintains its color better, and provides a more "fluid" movement in the water. Most modern spinnerbaits and jigs use silicone for these reasons.
Can I melt down old soft plastic lures to make new ones?
Yes, you can recycle old soft plastics by cutting them into small pieces and reheating them in a microwave-safe container. However, be careful not to mix different brands, as some use different chemical formulas that may not bond well or could produce excessive fumes. Always ensure the plastic is clean and dry before reheating to avoid dangerous "burps" of steam.
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